In her biweekly column, A Shared Tradition, CIA grad and amateur food historian Molly Siegler cruises around the world (and into the depths of her pantry) to explore the versatility of a single food item. 

This week: Molly sinks her teeth into egg-rich pastries literally exploding with flavor. 

Photo by Nicole Franzen; styled by Mariya Yufest

- Molly

I have a thing for popovers. The egg-based pastries are rich and light, crispy and soft all at the same time -- and so easy to create! Popovers puff up (and sometimes over, thus the name) on the strength of the eggs in the batter. The batter is thin and versatile enough to endure lots of experimentation.

My uncle spent a year in Austria in college, and every Sunday night the students living in the boarding house where he stayed would share a giant eggy pancake. The pancake was thinly sliced in strips and served with lemon wedges and powdered sugar. He became so accustomed to this Sunday night tradition, he couldn’t imagine heading back to Kansas without the recipe. The German pancakes he developed with the boarding house cook have been a part of my family's food traditions for decades.

English 
Yorkshire pudding is the mother of all egg batter pastries and is traditionally cooked in the fat rendered from a beef roast.

• A bit of lard or other rendered fat anchors this pastry’s spot in the savory realm.
• Pork sausage sliced or whole can be baked into the pudding for Toad in the Hole.
• Smashed roasted parsnips or turnips pay tribute to the traditional Sunday roast.
• Mustard thinly spread across the pudding keeps the richness at bay.

Colonial American 
The original popovers are the Colonial riff on Yorkshire pudding.

• Hot muffin tins or specialty popover tins provide deep wells for the batter to create its characteristic shape.
• Prime rib cooked to medium rare is a must.
• Horseradish, horseradish cream, and then some extra horseradish, please!
• Creamed spinach is a classic supper club addition to this meal.

German 
German pancakes are one of my favorite things on the planet. 

• Cooking spray must be applied aggressively or your pancakes will stick to the bowls.
• A load of butter is necessary for the makeshift syrup that develops with the lemon juice.
• Fresh lemon juice cuts through the richness of the pancakes and adds an unexpected brightness.
• Nutmeg -- because it’s traditional and because I think everything should have nutmeg in it.
• Powdered sugar should be dusted copiously over the pancakes just before serving. I'm not embarrassed to say I have a powdered sugar shaker just for these pancakes.

French
Profiteroles (also known as cream puffs), made from pâte à choux, are highly versatile. While they can be used for savory applications, I enjoy making profiteroles for a quick and easy dessert.

• European-style butter contains a higher percentage of butterfat and adds the best flavor.
• Milk and/or water will affect the texture of the profiteroles -- balance the two to achieve the right consistency. 
• Sweetened cream or ice cream is the perfect filling for the puffs.
• A luscious caramel or chocolate sauce pooled beneath the profiteroles adds a bit of sophistication to the plate.

Brazilian 
Braziian cheese puffs (pão de queijo) are best served piping hot with your favorite cocktail or afternoon coffee.

• Tapioca starch is used as a thickener in many recipes and adds a pleasant chewiness and sheen. 
• Parmesan and Pecorino Romano pack the popovers with a salty, nutty flavor that makes snacking on them irresistible.
• Torrontés, a light, citrusy wine from neighboring Argentina, is the perfect companion.

 
The makings of a German pancake party. If the batter looks funny, you're on the right track (left). The finished product, liberally dusted with powdered sugar and waiting to be doused with fresh lemon juice (right). (Photos by Molly Siegler)

These are just a few of the ways I like to travel by way of the popover. What other regionally inspired flavors would you use to make this puffed up pastry your own? Share your ideas in the comments section below.

Do you love a good food theme as much as I do? Tell me what food items or themes you'd like to see featured in this column and your idea could be the subject of an upcoming post!

Like this post? See Molly's previous topic: Egg Noodles.

Molly is a chef and food educator living and cooking in Northern Wisconsin. When she's not dreaming up themed menus, she's dishing out other delicious content as the editorial assistant for the Whole Foods Market Cooking program.