Raised on her family's farms and imbued with the shrewd kitchen wisdom of her Southern grandmothers, it's no surprise that Inspired Eating's Lisa Turner embraced a deep respect for food and the land at an early age. In her column, Farm Food, Lisa celebrates the clean, simple beauty of food pulled straight from the ground.

This week: Lisa confronts her childhood fear of cauliflower and ends up falling madly in love.

Photo by Sarah Shatz

- Lisa

Cauliflower Catharsis

When I was growing up, my relationship with cauliflower bordered on traumatic. We didn’t have it often, but when we did, it was badly mistreated -- boiled half to death, in the Southern way with vegetables, and served as a pale, mushy mess on my plate. I avoided it as much as possible. When it turned up in later years, as big raw clumps on salad bars, it did little to win my affection, harsh, aggressive, awkward to eat. I just wanted it to go away. 

It wasn’t until I started seriously cooking that I discovered its true beauty. Overcooked or served raw, cauliflower holds little appeal. Handled properly, though, it has a subtle, nutty sweetness and compelling bite that’s hard to beat. And, like other crucifers, cauliflower contains powerful anti-cancer compounds that are especially beneficial for women.

And here’s another thing about cauliflower: it’s endlessly versatile. Thinly slice it into large "steaks," brush it with oil and grill it; puree it with cashews soaked overnight and drained to make a creamy sauce; combine it with cooked potatoes before mashing; finely grate it and use it as a grain-free substitute for couscous; or blend it into any soup for rich, dairy-free creaminess.

If you suffered similar cauliflower trauma in your youth, try these lighthearted, fresh recipes -- and let your healing journey begin.

Creamy Cauliflower-Leek Soup with Tarragon Oil

The brilliant green oil swirled on top makes this simple, creamy soup special. You can use tarragon or basil individually, or substitute a different soft herb (oregano, marjoram, or cilantro). Be careful not to brown the leek during cooking, so you don’t interfere with the delicate color of the soup; you can also peel the potatoes for a velvety texture.

Serves 4 to 6

1 small leek, very thinly sliced (white and some pale green)
1 large stalk celery, chopped
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small to medium head of cauliflower, cored and chopped (about 4 cups)
2 small to medium white potatoes, chopped
4 to 5 cups vegetable broth
1/2 to 1 cup almond milk (unsweetened), or pastured, organic cow or goat milk
2 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Cauliflower "Couscous" with Pistachios and Figs

Processing cauliflower into tiny "grains" makes a vegetable couscous alternative that’s perfect for gluten-free or grain-free diets. Amp up the spices, or vary as you'd like: swap cashews or pine nuts for the pistachios, and use apricots, currants, or dates in place of the figs. Or eliminate the fruits and nuts, and add cooked chickpeas and toasted cumin seed. Don’t use virgin coconut oil for cooking; it has a lower smoke point and will give the couscous an "off" flavor.

Serves 4

1 large head cauliflower
2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 small red onion, finely diced
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons chopped pistachios 
12 tablespoons dried figs, chopped into very small pieces (6 to 8 figs)

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Cauliflower Steaks with Tomato-Ginger Sauce

This is a novel way to serve cauliflower. Cooked this way, the cauliflower is tender and mild enough to pair with any variety of sauces. My favorites are this tomato-ginger sauce, black olive and caper tapenade, corn and black bean salsa, or a simple balsamic vinegar glaze. Be sure to cut the steaks thick enough that they don’t fall apart, and keep the rest of the cauliflower for soups, or to make cauliflower couscous. We used our summer crop of tomatoes that we’ve put up in jars. You can find jarred tomatoes at your grocery store.

Serves 4

2 medium to large heads of cauliflower
One pint jar of tomatoes
1 1/2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup finely minced cilantro

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Like this post? See Lisa's previous topic: Escarole Ecstasy.

Lisa is a food writer, cooking instructor, nutrition consultant, and Psychology of Eating coach in Boulder. She's written five books and hundreds of recipes and articles for national and local magazines; developed the Inspired Eats iPhone app; and co-founded Boulder Soup Works. In her consulting business, Inspired Eating, she works with individual clients, groups, and corporations to help them create healthy eating patterns.